Nothing could be finer than eating at Cindy's Diner

A popular downtown Fort Wayne landmark provides a fitting setting for daily gatherings and special occasions. In this exceptional place, hearty food and hospitality are served every day along with family like solace and occasional political advice. Some people have enjoyed dancing here and one couple has found the establishment the perfect site for a wedding - all this in 400 square feet of space.

The place is Cindy's Diner, a cultural and architectural icon offering nostalgia, warmth and sustenance to its loyal, local patrons and worldwide fans.

Owners John and Cindy Scheele have operated Cindy's Diner since 1990 at its present location on the northwest corner of Wayne and Harrison streets. In 1954, the structure was originally purchased and brought to Fort Wayne from Kansas to be located on the northwest comer of Clinton and Jefferson, and then for a time at Clay and Berry Streets. Twelve years ago, John noticed the structure was about to be auctioned and he wanted to keep the unique retro diner in Fort Wayne. So, he called his wife with a completely unexpected question and asked "how would you like to own a diner?" With no time to consider the pros and cons of such a move and unencumbered by the bottom-line mentality of a business plan, the Scheeles purchased the structure two days later and two days after that, the diner was moved beside a warehouse on property John owned.

The Scheeles figured they would complete a fix-up of the diner and then hire someone else to operate it. At the time of the purchase, Cindy had sold the fabric shop she owned for 10 years and was caring for her parents. John was involved in running his construction company, which he started in 1967.

After six months of careful restoration and securing the ideal location at the corner of Harrison and Wayne, the Scheeles hired a manager and were poised to see their new venture progress as they continued their other daily pursuits. The couple would occasionally help out at the diner, but it didn't take long for them to become more and more involved in the daily operations, soon taking on management, cooking and serving duties themselves.

In the years since the Scheeles assumed ownership, Cindy's Diner has acquired a special identity and unique flavor beyond its evocative nature. Cindy's feels like a home away from home as a result of the attention showered on customers by the owners. "We know 85 percent of our customers by their first names," Cindy says. "We consider them our extended family."

This devotion is returned by a steady following of regulars and frequent out-of-towners that regard Cindy's with fondness.

Joan Flinspach, president and CEO of the Lincoln Museum in Fort Wayne, likes Cindy's for several reasons. "First, the food is really good," she says. "It's a fun place, too. You can talk to the owners right across the counter, and I like the way you can feel perfectly comfortable conversing with total strangers sitting at the counter with you."

Cindy's is a favorite of airline pilots and flight attendants on stopovers, downtown hotel guests and cast members of Embassy productions. The traveling cast of Les Miserables was so impressed with Cindy's atmosphere that they took videos of the tiny restaurant.

Many people returning to Fort Wayne include Cindy's as a must-stop while they are visiting. When San Francisco resident Steve Herkins comes back to the city, he usually stops at Cindy's Diner for a meal.

"Cindy's has the best coconut cream pie I've ever tasted, no doubt about it," Herkins says. Addresses from all over the world can be found in the guest book, which John and Cindy ask people from out of town to sign.

The cordial atmosphere is augmented by the charm of the physical surroundings. Cindy's has a seating capacity of 15, all counter space. Red stools and counter, black and white tile floors, official Cindy's Diner red-shirts on the cook and server (John and Cindy) set the theme. Several small, countertop jukeboxes featuring oldies, country and a few traditional standards can be played if the police radio and the conversation don't provide the right entertainment.

Banners exhibiting various homespun sentiments and Cindy's corporate slogan, "We serve the whole world, 15 at a time," are posted on the walls. Complaint forms (with instructions in Chinese) and a fisheye lens picture of Cindy's are part of the decor. Coffee mugs bear the names of local companies. Plaques honoring the diner are on display, including one from the fire department for John's successful effort to save a customer who had fallen into a utility vault on her way to the diner early one morning.

The main entertainment is watching John orchestrate the cooking of various dishes on the grill and stove in front of him, and Cindy's smooth-stepping around him in a sliver of space to accommodate the needs of the customers. It's a dance of agility perfected by the two after years of learning each other's cooking and serving patterns.

Cindy's is an authentic diner made by the Valentine Manufacturing Co. of Wichita, Kansas, which is no longer in business. As such, its historic value is significant. The portability afforded by the diner's construction makes it ideal for a business ready to take advantage of prime available real estate. "When we moved it to this site, we didn't even have to pack the cups," John says. "We left them on the shelves with no problem."

The cuisine featured at Cindy's is classic diner food. John does all the cooking, his skill acquired on the job. The important traits for this type of cooking are flexibility, creativity and speed. The flexibility is useful for the preparation of various customer requests not on the menu. John's creativity is tested when he's challenged by his customers to make unusual pies, among which have been orange meringue and even grapefruit. Speed is mandatory because of the customer turnover and the demand for carryout food. "John can make anything he makes up his mind to do," Cindy says.

Breakfast is available all day and makes up 65-70 percent of meals served. "It's not uncommon for me to be working on three cheeseburgers and French toast at the same time," John says. The diner's biggest seller is "garbage," a breakfast combination of eggs, potatoes, cheese, onions and bits of ham. John is particularly proud of the oatmeal, which he makes from scratch and says, "it's the best in town."

Ever faithful to their theme of nostalgia, John and Cindy brought Murphy's donut making machine to the diner in 1997. Long time residents will remember watching this equipment go through a series of steps to perfect their confectionary product, and it still functions today at Cindy's.

A visit to Cindy's Diner will confirm the unique nature of the place to anyone not familiar with its special atmosphere.

"We enjoy the camaraderie very much, or we couldn't spend the hours here that we do," Cindy says. Although the staff includes one other full-time server and two part-time workers, the Scheeles are there seven days a week most of the time, taking an annual vacation around Labor Day. Having 19 grandchildren keeps their event calendar full, and they occasionally leave their business to attend family milestone events.

When asked about long term plans for the special place they tend, John and Cindy Scheele will only say with certainty, "the diner belongs in Fort Wayne." Devoted customers could not agree more.